As Milan Fashion Week kicked off, Diesel once again situated itself as one of the first shows of the season. I was curious as to how the brand would top their Spring/Summer 2023 set comprised of the world’s largest inflatable sculpture; apparently, their answer was sex (at least, more of it). As guests arrived, they were greeted by a surprising behemoth of a set piece: a giant mound of 200,000 boxed Durex condoms, a nod toward their collaboration with the contraceptive brand and their forthcoming sex-positive and, I’ll say it, quasi-erotic show. Fans and followers of Diesel, or anyone with internet access and a curiosity about their prior shows, know that sex-based and sensual themes aren’t new territory for the brand, and it’s apparent as soon as you hear moans sampled from pornos being used in the show’s soundtrack. Sex-positivity is in.

Diesel’s Fall/Winter 2023 show opened with a few relatively conservative yet staple outfits, but by the fourth look tits were peaking out and skin was getting revealed; truthfully, it was for the better. While there were still modest and more conventional outfits throughout the show, the highlight of the show for me came from the more revealing and sensual looks. Diesel is pioneering in their manipulation and use of denim, and their use of devoré denim, a technique that was developed in-house, led to some of my favorite pieces in the show. The denim appeared to be dissolved and reduced to sheer panels that left little to the imagination and the effect is no less than breathtaking. The only people who wouldn’t be happy with those outfits are the same people who think ripped jeans are too much… Or should I say too little. Looks using this devoré technique resembled Mugler’s iconic mesh body suits which beg the question, is Diesel the Mugler of denim?

Despite my love for the sex appeal of some of the looks, not all of the outfits would make it into my shopping cart. Some of the more sensual pieces seemed sloppy and half-assed, but perhaps there was a deeper (no pun intended) sexual meaning behind some of the more revealing yet messier looks. Look 27, 28, and 30 looked like fabric that’s barely being held up by a chain threaded through some eyelets. Perhaps an homage to faulty shower curtains? Definitely steamy nonetheless (pun intended). There were two jackets, look 49 and 51, that actively repulsed me but don’t let those looks fool you, Diesel does know how to do messy well. A few looks prior paraded outfits of torn, billowing fabric that looked exquisite, albeit a bit grunge. Proof that messiness can still be sexy.

But the show was more than just an appreciation and enjoyment of the human body. Another favorite look of mine was a sleeved, floor-length black dress with a Diesel choker showing that being and feeling sexy doesn’t have to come from exposed skin and a contoured figure. Some pants and jackets feature the brand’s expert experience and knowledge of denim and leather for those looking to feel hot in layers (apologies for another pun). Throughout the show, there were

plenty of day-to-day ready clothes along with definitive show stoppers to be saved for special occasions. There were even two models seemingly spray painted blue and pink; an odd way to do a gender reveal, or perhaps they were cosplaying as characters from Guardians of the Galaxy? From distressed leather jackets to sultry denim dresses, from the grunge to the gorg, it’s safe to say Diesel Fall/Winter 2023 had something for everyone (and plenty of condoms).

Words Sam Logerfo-Olsen

Armour Magazine Season 30 — F/S 2023